I’v been checking your website for years. I Have rats in the garage since it is a wooden structure built in 1932.. The other day I found some one discarded a fast food bag with 2 pancakes soaked with the phony maple syrup. I broke them in chunks and distributed next to the multiple Victor snap traps. The rats would have to climb over the traps to get to the treats. Sure enough the bait was stolen and two rats were caught, one with the snap bar across his middle. So that worked. I also had mice and groundhogs , plus raccoons! I think I’ll leave them alone since they eat rats. I like the Fenn traps from England. They are really for outdoor use and have to be hidden so other animals don’t get caught. I’ve seen some that looked to be 30-40 years old. Thank David for procedures for Squirrel Removal Dallas. I got 13 last summer from using modified blocking techniques since I couldn’t get to their burrows. I also heard rats do not like steel wool I suspect concrete and stainless steel wool would do the trick since it would cut their mouths. I suspect Dave’s flashing technique would be best, though it might be impractical for most people. I had carpenter ants on two occasions and got rid of them on my own. I don’t know what to do about the brown ants, They are leaf eaters and are inoffensive. I also had cockroaches from the nursing home my parents were in. I bought roach traps (not really necessary) and used the boric acid powder. It worked. I dropped everything to do this. Same thing with the rats. I even made my own PB holders so the rats wouldn’t steal the bait. I even told Havahart their rat traps should have bait holder cups similar to bird cages. The rats would have to all the way back to the end of the cage and get caught. They would be removable for cleaning of course. When I first went on this website Dave was in Florida He’s expanded considerably. He’s doing things right. That’s why I go here. Victor says use the foam. They want the rats to come back so you buy more traps.